Locals are congratulating themselves on this newish rendition of The Bottle & Glass, a quaint inn with a thatched roof and characterful bar, located just a short drive out of Henley. Even if some of its charm is diluted by a modern extension now housing two dining rooms, there’s no gainsaying the focus of the operation or its pedigree. Drinkers looking for a pint and a snack are as welcome as those in search of a big night out. The boys behind the operation have form, having met at the much-heralded Harwood Arms in London – so expect British fare with a modern twist and plenty of seasonal accents. Perhaps lead off with game terrine, pistachio and apricot or treacle-cured salmon with cucumber, horseradish and cockles, ahead of hay-smoked venison with celeriac or Cornish cod with cauliflower, hazelnuts and sea herbs. Summer visitors have the choice of a beer garden or dining on the terrace.