Flexibility is the name of the game at this inviting waterfront eatery: you can scoff a plate of open sandwiches on a beanbag outside, or opt for something more formal in the whitewashed, wood-floored, sail-decked bar and dining room. And don’t be surprised if you see the chef disappearing with his fishing rod after service – he might bring back a few pouting or a brace of sea bass, which he’ll serve up later with a fennel risotto or salsa verde. Gurnard (the fish, not the village) is another favourite, accompanied by hollandaise sauce, new potatoes and green beans, while equally sustainable huss (rock salmon) might arrive with brown shrimp butter. The chef’s Danish heritage also means the odd Scandi touch, with home-cured gravadlax and frikadeller (Danish meatballs) making the occasional appearance. There are also plenty of interesting wines to match the food.