Clean cut and simply decorated, this charming five-table restaurant has become a fixture with the Dorchester cognoscenti and is one of the more modest Michelin-starred establishments in the book. Visit for lunch and you’ll be offered fresh, relatively straightforward food from a regularly changing set deal (think hake fillet with celeriac, mushrooms and red wine). In the evening, chef/patron Russell Brown rolls up his sleeves for a busier, more elaborate menu, with higher prices and a heap more ambition. Starters of dived West Bay scallops with spring onion, artichoke and pancetta ragoût might precede pan-fried brill with squid, chorizo chickpeas and saffron or a combo called ‘beef, beer and onions’. To conclude, check out the regional cheeses or try something sweet – perhaps coffee pannacotta with whisky cream, honeycomb, and orange. Service from Eléna Brown and her team is always attentive, and there’s a decent mixed bag of wines too.