Best restaurants in Primrose Hill

One of London’s original gastropubs is still among its most popular, with a lovely location on a quiet Primrose Hill corner. You’ll find a skinny-jeaned band of drinkers propping up the bar, sipping pints of Sharp’s Doom Bar or Woodforde’s Norfolk Hawker while wallowing in The Engineer’s renowned chilled-out charms. The menu now mixes pub stalwarts such as Welsh rarebit, cod and chips or sausage and mash with more innovative, fanciful ideas along the lines of seared scallops with salsify, pumpkin purée and crispy Black Combe bacon or roast pork belly stuffed with black pudding, while desserts could feature a ‘mess’ of pink rhubarb, clotted cream and custard. Come Sunday, we recommend the 21-day aged sirloin of beef with a tumbler of spicy Bloody Mary. The garden is a lovely bucolic spot, with lots of tables for alfresco dining – “get there early on a summer’s day”, advise one fan.

It’s now well into its third decade, but the “lovely” Lansdowne is still one of the coolest pubs in the area – you’ll often find Primrose Hill’s celebrity elite sipping summertime pints and fizz at its pavement tables. Even without the jet set, a ridiculously trendy bunch of drinkers fills the cosy, woody frayed-at-the-edges interior, but thankfully pretension is kept in check and there’s generally a friendly vibe. Dreamy bar staff pour glasses of crisp Viognier and G&Ts, while the kitchen works hard churning out “fabulous” homemade pizzas plus “reliable” Med-style dishes from an enticing chalked-up menu. Expect Spanish red pepper stew with a baked duck egg, roast cod and sautéed celeriac with clams, peas and gremolata or wild boar meatballs with tomato ragù and pappardelle followed by some sturdy English puds such as apple and rhubarb crumble with custard In short, a fun-loving, if rather noisy, treat.

Chef Michael Nadra proved his worth in Chiswick before branching out with this more ambitious Primrose Hill restaurant. Chic urban design sets the tone for his signature eclectic style and fans won’t be disappointed by a menu that showcases creative flavour combinations. Stand-outs on a recent visit included delicate prawn, scallop and chive dumplings in a vibrant green pool of broccoli and spinach velouté and perfectly roasted cod in an intense bisque with ‘sea spaghetti’ and plump Shetland mussels – although the culinary flair shines through right up to classic desserts such as melting chocolate fondant with rich salted caramel. Affordable fixed-price menus, weekend brunch and Sunday roasts are further draws, and there’s also a dedicated martini bar with around 20 different creations – try the chilli-infused ‘hot passion’. The canal-side site ranges over different levels, with the added bonus of an alfresco terrace.

Occupying its corner spot for more than 30 years, Lemonia must surely qualify for the ‘institution’ moniker by now. The place is run by Greek-Cypriots who do their best to offer a slice of Mediterranean sunshine, even when the weather isn’t playing ball. Cosy booths and hanging baskets help recreate the taverna feel inside, and when the sky is blue the terrace garden with its plentiful foliage comes into its own. The food consists of unreconstructed Hellenic staples – what you might hope for, really, and probably what most people would expect: tarama, hummus, grilled halloumi and suchlike to get going, but there’s octopus salad, too. Main courses have the same familiar ring: it’s like being on holiday on your favourite Greek island. Moussaka, stifado, grilled fish and hearty charcoal-flamed meats rarely disappoint, and Greek bottles star on the wine list. Want a set meal? The meze awaits.

A canny neighbourhood restaurant for this well-to-do part of town, La Collina hits the spot by offering the comforting familiarity of Italian cuisine presented with a contemporary sheen. Staff are relaxed and eager to please, the interior offers soothing neutrality (neither too smart nor too homely) and outdoor tables make for a proper Mediterranean ambience when the mercury is up. The kitchen sets out its regional stall by offering pan-fried polenta with wild mushrooms, Asiago cheese and black truffles as well as carpaccio of salmon with lemon and pink peppercorn dressing. After that, pasta is always worth a shout (perhaps tortellini in brodo or homemade strozzapreti with wild boar ragù) – or you can proceed straight to a main of, say, pan-fried cod fillet with lentils or calf’s liver veneziana. Desserts are in the classic tiramisu mould, while Italy’s top wine regions get a good showing on the drinks list.