The peeling paint & narrow shop front off Edgware Road don’t appear to promise much, but Patogh is a brilliant bolthole for fans of Persian food – dark & atmospheric, with high tobacco-coloured walls & lamps swinging overhead. Clad in white & unflustered by the lack of space, the genial kitchen team knocks out blistered breads from the clay oven – the perfect accompaniment to salads such as panir & sabzi (a herby mix of radish, cucumber & tomatoes with walnuts & white cheese). To follow, wonderfully charred & pocket-friendly kebabs top the bill, closely followed by grilled whole sea bass or okra stew, all served with piles of grilled vegetables & washed down with fruit juice, lassi or whatever you choose to bring along – there’s no corkage charge. Note: cash only.