Tucked away by the lobby of Hotel Indigo (near Liverpool’s waterfront), MPW’s latest outlet attracts business diners through the week, and locals and visitors at weekends.
Decor is bright and modern on both the ground-floor and mezzanine, with petrol-blue chairs, a modern geometric floor and a sweeping bar that takes centre stage (from which a robust wine list is produced, as well as a bright and bold selection of cocktails). The final flourish is glowering photographs of the chef himself adorning the walls, looking down on you as if to dare you to question the quality of his food.
As with many of the Marco Pierre White Steakhouse, staff are friendly and relaxed, knowing the menu well so as to be able to advise when needed. Be warned though, they’ll always suggest your steak medium rare, so stick to your guns if you like it any other way.
The menu leavens a broadly British approach with European and US flourishes (Bourguignon sauce here, mac 'n' cheese there). Our sea platter arrived in three Kilner jars, including a robust smoked-trout tartare that stood up well to a delicate smoked mackerel brandade with fresh horseradish, and kipper pâté with whisky. Next, a heavily seasoned well-aged rib-eye was flattered by a pungent peppercorn sauce and hefty chips. Had we wished there was also the option of tucking into cuts of fillet, sirloin or Delmonico, from the same royal warrant holding butcher who produces all of the steaks on the menu. Desserts are pure comfort food – sticky toffee pudding, Knickerbocker Glory, and a tangy orange and Cointreau soufflé wonderfully complemented by orange slivers and chocolate ‘soil’.
If you happen upon the steakhouse outside of dinnertime there is also a shorter lounge menu, a lunch line-up that starts at just £11.95 per person, as well as an afternoon tea spread should you wish to indulge in a little British tradition.