As the destination restaurant within York’s only five-star hotel, it will come as no surprise that Hudson’s deals exclusively in tasting menus. The ever-changing five- and nine-course set menus make ample use of locally sourced seasonal ingredients and foraged pickings for a procession of on-trend dishes in the modern British idiom. Both menus have vegetarian counterparts and the hotel’s green credentials stretch further still, thanks to its pledge to eradicate single-use plastic by 2020.
So far, so impressive, yet our visit wasn’t without flaws. The dining room, though beautifully proportioned and with plenty of pretty features including a large fireplace, opulent upholstery and a parquet floor, appeared somewhat dark in the early evening, particularly since it was empty when we arrived and for a while afterwards.
The hushed atmosphere, while livened by generic muzak (which we asked our genial waiter to turn down), was quite a contrast to the buzzing 1906 Bar next door, and not in a good way. That said, it’s easy to imagine how cosy the room undoubtedly is in winter, which could be why the restaurant was moved to this spot during the 2018 refurb.
When it came to the much-anticipated nine-course tasting menu, we were disappointed to find the dishes hit and miss. Our first course – piccolino tomatoes in tomato water – reminded us irresistibly of the tale of ‘The Emperor’s New Clothes’ (hint, the ‘tomato water’ tasted like water that had tomatoes sitting in it), but the Duke of York potato with alliums that followed was simply delicious. Pork belly accompanied by a fat, juicy langoustine was superbly tender, but the salt-baked swede was just that: salty swede.
When it came to bread, the croque madame was a wildcard that didn’t work, but the Haxby sourdough could have won prizes for its perfect crust. Fish came up trumps, while dessert was a mixed bag owing to a heavenly raspberry sorbet that tasted like pure summer, chased by a piece of dry chocolate cake served with too-tart blackberries. Drinks, on the other hand, were faultless, from the Champagne cocktails to the wine that complemented the food beautifully.
As the menu is constantly changing, we’d hope that future guests experience nine excellent courses as opposed to four or five like we did, since the kitchen is clearly not without talent. And perhaps, as the nights draw in, the room will enjoy the same vibrancy (and music) as the hotel’s other drinking and dining spots.