An award-winning eatery opened by TV chef Simon Rimmer in 1990, Greens – arguably the North’s leading vegetarian restaurant – was packed on our visit. The atmosphere is buzzy and laid-back, and dishes are inventive and globally-inspired. Try the signature starter of deep-fried oyster mushrooms in the lightest batter with pancakes and pickled ginger salad; it beats most crispy-duck versions hands down. Main courses are equally enticing: Lancashire cheese and basil sausages were packed with flavour, served with confit garlic mash, beer gravy and sweet tomato chutney; and earthy truffled wild mushroom and white bean Stroganoff was hearty and comforting, topped with rosemary roasted potatoes. To finish, a chilled rhubarb and custard crumble was sweet, sharp and creamy, accompanied by a well-judged Sauternes wine, while a pleasingly fudgy white-chocolate blondie came with summery raspberry Eton mess and the clever suggested pairing of a lychee-scented Gewürztraminer. A treat, whether or not you’re vegetarian.