Home to legendary Martini destination Dukes Bar, it’s now the turn of Dukes Hotel’s restaurant to be in the spotlight via this full refurbishment and rebrand. Nigel Mendham remains at the helm as executive head chef and his Great British Restaurant (GBR for short) does exactly what is says on the tin: hearty portions of traditional British comfort food. The elegant dining room is now dressed in deep blues, with monochromatic touches including black-and-white artwork and a granite-topped bar for cocktails. The menu is peppered with classics (shepherd’s pie, Goosnargh duck), but there are contemporary options too. We started out with addictive, crunchy nuggets of pulled pork soaked in barbecue sauce and wrapped in a crisp coating of breadcrumbs, and followed with fish & chips, involving flaky-fleshed cod in a beer batter with proper accompaniments of thick-cut chips, mushy peas and tartar sauce. Desserts are not to be missed: we loved our nostalgic helping of jam-roly poly to share, the golden sponge lined with warm jam and a smattering of fresh raspberries. GBR isn’t doing anything new, but that isn’t its intention – and there’s a 12-cover private dining with its own fireplace that’s every bit as comforting as the rest of the restaurant.