We’re big fans of chef Vivek Singh’s high-end modern Indian cuisine and this offshoot of his flagship Cinnamon Club earns him yet more applause. Like its siblings in Battersea and Oxford, it’s been cleverly designed to suit its surrounds ¬– in this case a former spice warehouse, done out in industrial-chic style for City slickers. The decking outside is a bonus: perfect for alfresco dining whatever the weather, thanks to its covered courtyard.
Inside, the action revolves around an open kitchen, where chefs prepare a series of “wonderful, aromatic” dishes, characterised by subtle spicing. Highlights on our last visit included an enormous garlic- and coriander-crusted wild prawn, juicy and blackened from the grill, and palak patta chaat -– a moreish rendition of the Indian street-food snack flavoured with tangy tamarind and coriander.
To follow, our Goan-style pork cheek vindaloo was marked by a welcome savoury richness rather than fiery spice, while delicate green-spiced monkfish contrasted with its punchy tamarind and tomato sauce.
Other options include tandoori-spiced red deer with pickled root vegetables, and Lucknow-style chicken biryani, all backed by a dependable selection of hot, buttery breads, rice and creamy dhal. The six-course tasting menu is perfect for sampling the full repertoire, while set deals offer good value for working lunches on a tight schedule.
To drink, expect fruity Asian-inspired cocktails from the Anise Bar and a thoughtfully chosen wine list that includes a selection of English labels among its spice-friendly bottles. Factor in reliably good service and you have a City stalwart that’s worth repeat visits.