We interrupt the Christmas barrage with this quick reminder: we’re in the thick of truffle season. In honour of this happy time, we’ve boarded the truffle train to tinsel town and handpicked a selection of the most delicious truffle-inclusive dishes. Not sure if your truffle taste buds are on track? We’ve got that covered too: scroll to the end for our truffle bluffer’s guide, courtesy of The Dorchester’s executive chef Henry Brosi. Because fungus is for life (okay… autumn and winter), not just for Christmas.
Alyn Williams at The Westbury Hotel, Mayfair (above)
Tell me more: Chef Alyn Williams marries technical skill with a passion for provenance and the joys of the vegetable garden to create a repertoire of tantalising, precision dishes
And the dish? Cornish hake with gutweed butter, truffles, clams and welsh beach greens
Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels, Covent Garden (above)
Tell me more: There’s been something of a wine bar revival in London of late, and this Parisian-owned new-wave charmer is one of the best examples
And the dish? Pan-fried scallops, cauliflower cream and hazelnuts (as part of the white truffle menu, available until the end of 2015)
Kurobuta, Chelsea and Marble Arch (above)
Tell me more: New World chefs have a knack of turning serious Japanese cuisine into crowd-pulling rock and roll – and Aussie Scott Hallsworth has made his upbeat Kurobuta restaurants the hottest places in town
And the dish? Tuna sashimi pizza with truffle ponzu, red onions and green chillies
Les Deux Salons, Covent Garden (above)
Tell me more: Following a huge refurbishment courtesy of new owners Prescott & Conran, the ground floor now houses a café, bistro, bar, wine shop and small deli, while the flagship French a la carte provides a fancier affair upstairs
And the dish? Artichoke à la Greque and asparagus salad, with a truffle dressing
Murano, Mayfair (above)
Tell me more: Angela Hartnett and Pip Lacey’s truffle pasta dishes have garnered quite the reputation. Even better, you can ask for Alba white truffles to be added to other dishes on the menu
And the dish? Hand rolled tagliatelle and butter emulsion (part of the Alba white truffle selection, available until the end of 2015)
The Promenade at the Dorchester, Mayfair (above)
Tell me more: The pillared Promenade is the first thing you’ll see when you arrive at Park Lane’s landmark hotel. That magnificent green and gold room is a sight to behold…
And the dish? Tagliatelle with white truffles (available until the end of 2015)
Roka, Mayfair (above)
Tell me more: Roka’s brand of high-gloss contemporary Japanese food continues to wow the Mayfair crowds in this one-time bank premises
And the dish? Kampachi sashimi with yellowtail sashimi and yuzu truffle dressing
Not sure how to navigate the humble truffle? We asked Henry Brosi (below), executive head chef at The Promenade at The Dorchester, for a quick truffle bluffer’s guide:
“To ensure you are being served a good truffle when eating out, always ask to smell the truffle. The aroma is very powerful, almost pungent with a sweet note. If the truffle is older, it will be more musky in flavour and a little soft and spongy. If possible, try to feel the truffle. The general rule is to only buy or eat a firm truffle.
“A good white truffle is created predominately by the climate during the growing season, so the timing of the harvest is crucial. If the weather is too hot or there is too much rain, then the flavour of the truffle becomes too shallow. A good truffle has a strong aroma, feels firm and the flesh should be a shade of pale cream or light brown with a white marbling. However, the very best truffles have a hint of pink in their flesh.”
So, there you have it: it’s all in the smell and the squeeze. Happy truffle hunting everybody…
This article was published 18 December 2015