The Café Royal’s new cocktail bar is inspired by ‘The Last Supper’ – the notorious party thrown here by David Bowie, the same night he stunned fans by killing off his alter ego Ziggy Stardust. Fascinating portraits of Bowie aside, the bland room (a soupy tomato and pumpkin retro-chic lounge) needs decorative ch-ch-Changes if it hopes to replicate his swagger.
Undoubtedly, the real Heroes here are the Starman barman’s Rebel Rebel rinses: especially Femme Fatale (a generous vodka and Byrrh Saketini topped with edible silver pearls on a crimson petal), and a smooth Johnnie Walker Black whisky, Punt e Mes and Frangelico Manhattan. Service is Hunky Dory, snacks not universally so. We rate the yam, cucumber and avocado maki rolls, and the fresh, flaky Cornish crab on toast – but our barbecue Wagyu beef short rib in bao buns needed spikier seasoning and less unyielding dough to make it a Modern Love.