As pan-Asian small-bite menus proliferate nearby, and sushi prep is put into relatively unschooled hands, Yuzu continues to do things properly. This small restaurant on the Chinatown fringes has changed little since opening in 2010 – origami figures and saké bottles still provide the decoration – but it has quietly seduced umami seekers who come to sample some of the best Japanese food in town. The menu is sensibly proportioned, and features sashimi but no sushi (the kitchen doesn’t have the expertise), and masterful frying. Must-order dishes include brilliantly fresh gyoza to dip into soy sauce and chilli oil, chicken karaage, and prawn or chicken katsu. Sashimi is a real strength, either served on sushi rice as a donburi bowl or in a simple platter; there’s also tempura, udon noodles and good-value lunch sets. Keep an eye out for interesting Japanese beers on the drinks list – and the choice of seven sakés.