This immaculately converted set of farm buildings has oak beams, wood burners and exposed brickwork aplenty, offset by fresh decor and simple furnishings. After drinks in the cosy lounge bar, move through to the smartly rustic dining room, where meals generally begin with good crusty bread and a little appetiser. The kitchen combines classic techniques and modern sensibilities to good effect – perhaps a smooth game liver and foie gras parfait teamed with crisp gingerbread, fig and port reduction, ahead of crab-crusted cod with mussels, creamed cabbage, sprouting broccoli, carrot and curry oil. There is plenty of technical skill on show here, but you’ll also find simple pleasures such as sausages with mustard mash and onion gravy. To finish, treacle tart with stout ice cream is typical of the chef’s way with traditional themes. Excellent service seals the deal.