Although the name conjures up visions of vintage bucolic charm, this revamped 19th-century hostelry stands on the edge of the Green Belt, just 10 minutes from the Lakeside shopping centre. Not surprisingly, it’s also a family-friendly kind of place with a big beer garden, a separate children’s menu, Sunday roasts and even some walking opportunities along the River Ingrebourne Valley Greenway. The kitchen serves up a mixed bag of generous pub dishes, from ‘classics’ such as gammon steak, fish pie and Caesar salad to mezze plates, goats’ cheese crostini and braised pork belly with black pudding, mash and apple fritters. Char-grilled steaks are a top shout, and puds keep it familiar with giant profiteroles, chocolate brownies or Eton mess. Real ales from Greene King and the Caledonian Brewery are alternatives to the short, workmanlike wine list.