Tim and Anna Dover’s modest stone-built restaurant deserves to “earn its place among the culinary elite” – so say fans who love everything about The Roost. The owners’ “attention to detail” is second to none, from growing their own herbs and veg to fishing and foraging for local pickings. Scottish ingredients are at the heart of things, although Tim’s cooking has strong Gallic overtones – think Scrabster cod fillet with sea beet, winter chanterelles, vermouth and shellfish sauce or grain-crusted Perthshire venison with braised red cabbage, sweet potato, romanesco and cocoa nib jus. To start, don’t miss the warm salad of homemade duck pastrami with pan-fried foie gras and pickled beets; to finish, take a punt on pear tarte Tatin with brandy and honey ice cream. The setting is cool, elegant and discreet (white walls, black chairs, pastel prints), wines are well chosen, and there’s an interesting selection of Scottish-brewed beers too.