A one-time Victorian eye hospital on the edge of Exeter, this second property in the Chapter hotel portfolio has been bought bang up to date with cool staff, a spa and a glass-fronted dining room.
In contrast to the hotel’s funky modernism, the food emanating from the open kitchen is deliciously unassuming: chicken breast on fried courgettes and lentils, artichoke heart filled with a poached
egg and hollandaise or mussels in Thai broth all impress thanks to top-notch ingredients and crystal-clear flavours. There are some creative touches too, from carrots roasted with cumin, chilli and
feta to chocolate fondant with a caramel centre (TV chef/author Simon Hopkinson acts as consultant here). Once you’ve sussed it out, the iPad wine list yields good value, variety and helpful
information – something that’s occasionally missing from the service.