A breath of fresh air less than half an hour from central London, the restaurant in this 500-year-old house overlooks the formal gardens and the lake – lending an air of peace and tranquility. Less laid-back, though, is the kitchen, where there’s no shortage of ambition. Start with the classic combination of scallops and pancetta, here served with apple for tartness and texture. Follow with pork tenderloin and slow-cooked, richly spiced cheek served with pine nuts and peach, or halibut with wild mushroom brioche and crayfish tortellini, with an aniseed perfumed pineapple tarte Tatin or well-kept cheese to finish. The wine list covers all the bases, from easy drinking whites by the glass to top vintage Burgundies.
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