Linked to popular country pub The Jolly Sportsman, this neighbourhood gastro-boozer takes much of what is good about its rural cousin, but adds a dash of urban sophistication – globe lighting, picture windows, painted panelling and all. Like The Sportsman, the menu showcases seasonal and local ingredients in comforting dishes such as duck breast with wild mushrooms and caramelised chicory, but chef and co-owner Anthony Burns also likes the exotic. Witness a starter of dong po pork (braised pork belly) with crispy spiced sardines and an intense micro-leaf salad from the pub’s own garden. A la carte prices are steep by Brighton pub standards, but fair compared to the city’s restaurants, and there can be no complaints about the set menu – a snip at £14 for two courses. There’s plenty to keep drinkers occupied among the eclectic wine list, array of whiskies and decent cocktails (try the chocolate and ginger Martini).
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