Waves crash against the harbour wall just yards from the Devonport’s front door, & its interior references the sea without recourse to nautical clichés – although stripped floors, white panelling & driftwood sculptures lighten what must have been a dark hideaway. Thanks to current incumbents Jerome & Dawn Leopold, it’s now a welcoming, buzzy meeting place for villagers & holidaymakers alike, with pub & restaurant given equal billing. Jerome hails from France & his unpretentious cooking mixes Gallic touches with West Country ingredients – maybe Fowey mussels in a punchy tomato & chilli sauce followed by tender venison with braised red cabbage, fondant potato & juniper jus, or even a perfectly seasoned butternut squash risotto with some chunky beef-dripping chips on the side. Puds such as plum & apple crumble hit the spot too. Drinks include excellent beers from Skinners & Tintagel Brewery.