Squirrelled away “down a dirt path” in Radley Green, The Cuckoo is a real find – “very small and personal, with the most amazing food to boot”. Local suppliers and producers provide many of the ingredients for a seasonal menu that reflects the owners’ worldwide travels. Starters might offer anything from Californian crab cakes with pineapple salsa to seared scallops with crispy prosciutto and guacamole, while mains could take in the likes of Thai chicken curry, confit duck with savoy cabbage or slow-roast pork belly with stir-fried pak choy, udon noodles and hoisin sauce. After that, order some Neal’s Yard cheeses, a homemade ice cream or a pud such as banana and toffee cheesecake with pecan sauce. Staff are friendly, the atmosphere’s “warm” and the beer is kept in good order – everything you would want from a country pub in a lovely location.