Idiosyncratic & refreshing, the Cors is a rambling 1830s house with a slightly distressed, bohemian interior filled with paintings by chef/proprietor Nick Priestland, a mishmash of antique furniture & plenty of evening candlelight in the womb-like, red-walled dining room. Besides art & cooking, Nick’s reigning passion is gardening & he has coaxed the surrounding patch into an exotic-looking bog garden, intersected by streams & ponds. Have a wander before settling down to simple food with big flavours – maybe carpaccio of beef with wild rocket & parmesan shavings followed by roasted rack of local spring lamb with a rosemary/garlic crust & caramelised onion gravy, plus some of the finest dauphinoise potatoes around. This is fresh, vibrant food of the best sort – although desserts such as mini pavlova or sticky toffee pudding are significantly less dazzling than the preceding courses.