New owners with plenty of vision have re-branded what was ill-fated Hurst House, given it a new lease of life and cemented its position as a luxury country retreat. The restaurant is devastatingly gorgeous – a long, crystal-hung conservatory with views over the walled grounds. Linen-clad tables and charming staff add to the sense of occasion, while the menu pulls together a long list of top-notch ingredients and treats them with respect and imagination: duck could come with a salad of noodles and raddichio dressed with sesame oil, while roasted leg of lamb with soy, chilli fondue, samphire and saffron potatoes makes for a punchy and surprisingly harmonious main course. There are also more traditional favourites such as Carmarthenshire rib-eye with triple-cooked chips and béarnaise sauce, while dessert might include poached peach meringue with frozen pistachio parfait.
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