The Checkers

An unlikely hook-up between an illustrious French chef (ex-Waterside Inn et al) and two farmer’s daughters from Shropshire, The Checkers is an old Montgomery drinking den transformed into a “most welcoming” boutique restaurant-with-rooms. Drinks by the wood-burning stove in the delightful lounge provide the warm-up for dinner in two elegantly appointed rooms done out with antique French furniture and eau-de-nil panelling. Stéphane Borie’s Michelin-starred food is embedded in the haute tradition, although he overlays all that classical finery with a larder full of seasonal ingredients. Home-baked breads and amuse-bouches start the ball rolling, before tasting plates ranging from roasted scallop with crab cannelloni, baby gem and sauce Nantua to venison Wellington with sweet onion purée, trompette mushrooms, orange and peppercorn sauce. After that, sweetness arrives in the form of ‘riz au lait’ with caramel and hazelnut or damson crumble soufflé, and everything is backed by an impressive choice of wine flights. “Comfortable and well-appointed” bedrooms await if you’re staying overnight.