The twin arts of Chinese cookery and permanent body adornment are celebrated at Tattu, which resembles an ad man’s vision of a sexy tattoo parlour – except with more har gau. Anchors suspended on thick ropes fill the void linking ground-floor bar to a first-floor restaurant where there’s an open kitchen at one end and a fabulous cherry blossom tree at the other. It’s inky-dark and deliberately showy, with a waft of incense and a view of Greggs bakery. From the contemporary Chinese menu, start with beef and foie gras gyoza in a robustly chewy wrapper and, for sweetness, duck and watermelon salad with bushels of mint. Saffron miso black cod is genuinely fresh and cooked with flair, but the most compelling ingredient is the rich caramel soy accompanying seared Angus fillet with shiitake and white asparagus. Desserts are overcomplicated and need urgent revision, but cocktails (including sharing options) are spectacular.