Taka Marylebone

London is hardly short of decent Japanese restaurants, so it’s easy to believe that new openings will have nothing fresh to offer diners. Enter Taka Marylebone, which shatters any such preconceptions - Taka doesn’t reinvent the wheel when it comes to Japanese food, but there is a charming sense of playfulness to the menu which helps it stand out among the crowd.

The restaurant is split across two floors and the dining room is as minimalist as you would expect - bare tables, white walls and a small bar from which all manner of fun cocktails are produced. The menu consists of both classic and contemporary Japanese fare, all designed to share. You can order tightly packed California rolls bursting with the freshness of avocado and sweetness of shredded crab, or splurge with the ultra-decadent Wagyu Sando, served in quarters and squished between buttery ‘happy’ bread which lives up to its name.

However, you will find the most intriguing dishes underneath the ‘Japanese tapas’ section. We were particularly taken with the pillowy mochi flatbread, which comes with a brush for painting on its accompaniment of melted butter infused with nori seaweed, while the aptly named ‘Lord of the Fries’ is surely something Marie Antoinette would have dreamed up - it arrives at the table topped with a snowdrift of truffle and Parmesan, as well as the option to add Exmoor Caviar.

Even humbler dishes are given novel updates at Taka; a simple bowl of sushi rice arrives dripping in Wagyu fat and alongside nori sheets that you can use to assemble DIY tacos, while sparklingly fresh salmon tataki is served on a pool of vibrant green sauce that’s laced with chili.
Desserts (various bowls of mousses or mochi balls) are perhaps a little underwhelming considering what comes before them, but no one goes to Japanese restaurants for the pudding.

As with all small plates joints, the bill can mount up without you realising, but self-assured, sweet service helps to soften the blow. Despite its fervent competition, Taka still manages to feel fresh and fun, and for that, it should be celebrated.

The second London site for the Taka brand finds its home in Marylebone, following on from its Mayfair debut which opened in Shepherd Market in 2017.

Taka was founded by restaurateur Andrey Datsenko and his sister Anastasia, with the pair initially opening a location in Tokyo before making their way to London. The interiors reflect the typically minimalist Japanese style, with wood-panelled walls, low lighting and staff dressed head-to-toe in black.

You can expect to find a mixture of traditional and contemporary Japanese fare on the menu, encompassing sushi, tempura plates and desserts. Kickstart your meal with dishes such as edamame beans flecked with sea salt or crispy deep-fried baby squid pepped up with chilli and lime. There are sushi rolls to choose from too, with fillings including sweet shrimp, fresh water eel and fatty tuna.

Next up, pick from gyoza filled with combinations such as chicken and vegetable or shrimp and leek, or tuck into rock shrimp tempura served with a tofu chilli mayonnaise. It’s not all about the sushi and seafood though, as you can also enjoy dishes from the robata grill, such as aged beef ribeye or grilled salmon in a spicy sauce.

Desserts see classic puddings given added Japanese touches – think a matcha tiramisu served with yuzu sorbet, or a yuzu crème brûlée. If you’re not feeling adventurous though, you can stick to the more conventional likes of chocolate fondant or an ice-cream selection with flavours such as vanilla, blueberry and lavender.

Taka Marylebone’s site has a history of good restaurants. The space it occupies was formerly home to chef Peter Gordon’s fusion classic The Providores, which operated for 18 years. The Providores closed its doors for good in the summer of 2019 when Gordon and his business partner Michael McGrath decided to take a break from their careers to pursue travel and other projects.