Following the success of its Altrincham original, Southern Italian pasta kitchen Sugo has opened a branch in Ancoats, Manchester’s original Little Italy. It’s larger than Altrincham, though retains a similar relaxed style with communal sharing tables and an open kitchen.
The menu is succinct – five starters and seven mains – focusing predominantly on fresh Pugliese pasta, made by the Ligorio family in San Vito. Starters are simple and well-executed, including crisp arancini filled with oozing Campania buffalo mozzarella and basil pesto, and creamy burrata with fragrant orange and chilli marmalade and grilled radicchio.
In terms of pasta dishes, the hearty House Sugo – orecchiette with meltingly tender slow cooked beef shin, pork shoulder, and spicy nduja ragu – is a particular highlight, while a dish with smoky pancetta, Brussels sprouts, leeks, chilli, parmesan, and a golden pangrattato crumb is seasonal and well-balanced. A side salad of Sicilian fennel, fresh orange, bitter chicory, salty black olives and mint is full of flavour and texture. Desserts include a delicate vanilla pannacotta with spiced apple, toasted oats and nuts, and affogato made with fior di latte ice cream and punchy espresso.
The solely Italian wine list is short but considered, covering Sicily, Tuscany, Puglia and Veneto, as well as a selection of spritzes and local Manchester beer. Sugo Pasta Kitchen is an authentic addition to Ancoats.