Best restaurants in Kentish Town

The sign outside tersely states ‘Ale, Cider, Meat’ – indeed, this singular hostelry makes no bones about its priorities. Tired of chains and generic pubs-by-numbers, the owners set out to provide something more primordial when they reopened a gritty Victorian boozer in 2009. The Southampton Arms is dedicated to showcasing small UK breweries and cider-makers, and the bar staff are an informed bunch who’ll happily wax lyrical while pulling one of 18 ciders and ales on tap: from the esteemed likes of Dark Star, Redemption or Millwhites. ‘Meat’ finds its way into hearty bar snacks: maybe plump Scotch eggs, sausage rolls, or roast joint of pork ready to be sliced into baps. The look is gloriously dressed down and retro, with worn-in stools and a cosy fireplace. It’s the kind of place you could bed in for the evening with friends, not emerging until the early hours.

William Borrell is the latest entrepreneur to recognise the money-spinning potential of a decommissioned pissoir (see Cellar Door in WC2, The Convenience in E9, WC in Clapham, et al). Nimbys pooh-poohed this local lad’s plans, but Camden council saw sense and green-lighted the Vestal Vodka MD’s conversion of Kentish Town’s Edwardian khazi. Respectable gents – and loos women – might fancy a rhubarb Gin Sour presented in an old Bird’s custard tin, hot apple and pumpkin toddy served in grandma’s best china, or perhaps a Bulleit, butterscotch and Werther’s Original-flavoured Old Fashioned. Dippy decor (think mad Edwardian professor meets Professor Green), dishy staff and decent drinks suggest Borrell’s far from bog-standard bogs will be more than just a flash in the pan.

The landlords of this spruced-up Victorian tavern take their drink just as seriously as their food, providing handy tasting notes for moderately priced wines, and attracting real ale enthusiasts with a regularly changing line-up – perhaps Adnams Lighthouse, Otter Ale and Naked Ladies (from Twickenham Fine Ales). The pub’s current chef earned his stripes at Vinoteca in Soho, so expect Spanish cured meats, Italian artisan cheeses and Greek deli specialities alongside sustainable fish from British waters, Elwy Valley lamb and Shropshire venison. Typical offerings might range from Hereford beef carpaccio or grilled Cornish mackerel with samphire and ginger dressing to Barnsley chop with fresh cocoa beans, soutzouki, chard and gremolata or hake with chorizo, mussels, clams and potatoes, followed by chocolate St Emilion or Pimms jelly with Chantilly. The conservatory is a plum setting for romantic dinners, and there’s a leafy garden out back.

CURRENTLY CLOSED FOR REFURBISHMENT. REOPENS AUTUMN 2019

With animal heads on its walls (nothing endangered, mind) and a bucolic finish, The Bull & Last has the feel of a country pub in the big city. The ground-floor bar can generate quite a buzz at busy times, so diners might prefer heading up the stairs to the (relative) poshness of the restaurant, where there’s more room to kick back and take in the menu.

Some appealing nourishment is on the cards, treading a line between hearty rusticity and metropolitan refinement. The charcuterie and fish boards offer sharing possibilities, or you could keep scallop ceviche all to yourself. Steak and chips or fish and chips crank up the comfort factor, with the likes of rump of English lamb with Jerusalem artichoke purée and lamb pastilla, and a dessert of black fig Tatin, revealing the culinary chops of the kitchen. London’s microbreweries get a good outing at the pumps.