Amazing seafood” is the reason for choosing this bijou eatery, tucked away in Brighton’s maze-like South Lanes. It’s a tiny space with white tiled walls, an open kitchen and a wet fish counter; the atmosphere is “fantastic”, and there’s an unmistakably glamorous edge to proceedings thanks to crystal chandeliers and high marble tables. Bowls of New England clam and bacon chowder might open the show, oysters are served with ‘foaming tankards of black velvet’ andextravagant platters of fruits de mer feature whole crab or lobster. Otherwise, the kitchen sends out everything from grilled octopus with smoked paprika and ceps to squid and shellfish risotto, fish pie or pan-fried halibut with polenta, aubergine caviar and piquillo pepper sauce. Veggies get a few token offerings, although committed carnivores receive short shrift. The excellent little wine list gives plenty of space to fizz, while service is speedy and well versed. Readers also confirm that the daily set menus are “always great value”. Note: this branch doesn’t take bookings, but you can always reserve a table at R&F’s beachfront offshoot.