Think Ply, think disco-ball pizza – the wood-fired Neapolitan pizza oven here is clad in glinting mirror tiles. It’s the showiest thing about this otherwise laid-back post-industrial space, with long, high communal tables, a convivial nest of sofas, and drinks announced in the style of movies at an art-house cinema. The venue feels like a creative place, perhaps thanks to changing exhibitions of contemporary art, and the Northern Quarter location, but it’s also somewhere you could lose a few hours amid a decent draught and bottled beer selection and a zeitgeisty cocktail list. Food starts with antipasti, such as shaved fennel, lemon and chilli salad, marinated vegetables or coppa with burrata. That disco oven bakes sourdough pizza: from simple margherita with fior di latte mozzarella, to an alliumtastic onion Bianca (with smoked mozzarella, red and white onions, shallots and pancetta). A membership card scheme gives 10% discount between Sunday and Thursday.