Star chef Nathan Outlaw’s two Michelin-star Restaurant Nathan Outlaw in Port Isaac was previously described as “the ultimate in classy fish cuisine” and “an all-time favourite” by SquareMeal readers, regularly proving why it was up there with the very best in the business.
However, due the impact of the Coronavirus pandemic in 2020, Outlaw decided to shut up shop and rebrand the space as a more accessible offering, giving it the new name Outlaw’s New Road. It seems the gamble has paid off, because Outlaw's New Road was awarded one Michelin star less than a year after opening.
While the kitchen may have swapped out its singular tasting menu for a more casual set menu, the electric atmosphere remains. The restaurant’s seafront setting and fabulous views of the north Cornish coast resonate with the “sounds of satisfaction” coming from each and every table – testament to the sheer virtuosity of Outlaw’s cooking and his sympathetic approach to super-fresh Cornish seafood.
Diners are offered a fixed price set menu, which consists of a procession of dynamic seafood-led plates. Highlights include smoked haddock with curried lentils and curry mayonnaise, and monkfish accompanied by bacon, roast onion, swede and sage. To finish up, there is a malted milk parfait with toffee sauce.
All in all, this is “fish like you’ve never had before”, while the beautifully calibrated displays are backed by studiously matched wines, “expertly chosen by one of the most knowledgeable sommeliers in the country”. Service, meanwhile, cleverly balances sociability with impressive expertise while remaining “perfect and unstuffy”.
The impact of the Coronavirus pandemic saw some big changes to Outlaw’s restaurant portfolio, including the closure of his London restaurant Siren at The Goring hotel. However, Outlaw has found a new winning combination with this more casual and accessible concept. It may be less of a special occasion venue than its predecessor, but Outlaw’s New Road is still a tour de force – “a truly outstanding dining experience, and one to treasure.”