Time stands still at Tylney Hall’s handsome restaurant, which exists in a parallel, classically English universe where every country-manor daydream is fulfilled. A piano has its keys tickled at dinner, the oak-lined room is illuminated by candlelight, and the Jacobean-style windows overlook a carefully landscaped view stretching to the horizon. The pricey menu (soup is £10.50) plays it close to home, with rabbit and prune terrine or seared scallops to begin, followed by grilled Dover sole or venison loin. But you will find the occasional continental touch too: the likes of prawn cannelloni or chicken stuffed with Brie. Our roast joint of Scottish beef was theatrically wheeled out on a heated silver trolley, the centrepiece of a simple and well-executed dish, while grilled sea bass fillet was lifted by lentils in lightly spiced salsa. Pretty desserts include such comforts as apple crumble, chocolate tart or crème brûlée, but the annotated English cheese list offers more interest. Accompany your choice with something from the international wine selection, which has a French core and a dash of English fizz. The Oak Room won’t join the real world any time soon, but it does countryside grandeur to a tee.
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