Vintage Champagne Rocks

Updated on • Written By Giles Fallowfield

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Vintage Champagne Rocks

Vintages don't happen every year. Find out what sets some Champagnes apart with our guide to what bottles are on offer now

Champagne sans année, as the French more attractively describe non-vintage Champagne, is made from a blend of two or more harvests and accounts for the vast majority of Champagne production. For the large houses, the aim here is to produce a consistent style. champagne glasses

In contrast, vintage Champagne has to be 100% from the year indicated on the label and, as a result, is more variable in style. It is, in effect, an expression of one single harvest. The character of the year gives the characteristics of the vintage, but the step up in quality and intensity of flavour comes from the selection of the best grapes from Champagne’s top sites. 

Vintage Champagnes typically spend more time ageing than non-vintage Champagnes and, consequently, few top houses have released vintages past 2006, while several are still selling 2004 or even 2002.  

It used to be said that vintage Champagne is typically released by a majority of producers three or four times a decade – only when the weather in this, the most northerly of France’s vineyards, is particularly kind and agreeable.

However, since the turn of the Millennium, Champagne has experienced generally warmer summers and looks likely to muster five high-quality vintages (the 2008s and 2009s have mostly yet to be released) in that decade.

Vintage cuvées demonstrate best that Champagne is a wine that can be kept for many years without losing all its zip and freshness, at the same time developing aromas, flavours and complexity that set it aside from other top sparkling wines.

If you need more convincing, here’s our guide to the vintages that are available to buy at the moment.

champagne cork

Investing tips

 The idea of buying vintage Champagne as an investment – that is, buying it by the case to lay down like top Bordeaux and Burgundy wines – is a relatively new one outside a small circle of Champagne lovers.

 Champagne investment reached a wider audience with the much heralded 2002 vintage, when several leading merchants ran what was in effect an en primeur campaign with certain brands.  When dipping a toe into these waters, speak to fine wine specialists such as Berry Bros & Rudd, Farr Vintners and The Wine Society.

 You can still buy 2002 (if you go back further I’d plump for 1988, 1990 and 1995).

 Since 2002, 2004 is also a good bet, though the vintage was large and it may not have 2002’s longevity. Looking ahead at vintages yet to be released, 2008 and 2009 look very promising. More recently still 2012, small in size but in many peoples’ view perfectly formed, was very highly rated at the time of the harvest.  

 If you can, buy in magnum format as the wines age and develop more slowly than in 75cl bottles. 

Vintage performers

2000

Style in brief: Generous, soft and ripe

Despite a cool, wet summer and severe hailstorms in July, a dry, warm period just before the harvest in early September resulted in mainly ripe grapes with relatively low acidity. The wines are quite forward, which has made for attractive drinking from the outset.

Overall rating: 6/10

When to drink: 2014-2018

Two to try: Lanson Noble Cuvée 2000,

Duval-Leroy Femme 2000

2002

Style in brief: Well balanced, age-worthy wines

After a cool, wet August, sunny weather from the start of September helped produce one of the most consistently high-quality vintages. It was widely declared, with many houses making outstanding wines of great balance and intensity. The best will happily last at least another decade.

Overall rating: 9/10

When to drink: 2014-2024 Champagne houses 2013

Two to try: Pommery Louise 2002,

Cuvée Alain Thiénot 2002 

2004

Style in brief: Attractive and relatively forward-drinking

One of the largest harvests on record was also of high quality, just like in 1999, 1983 and 1982. The prospects looked good from the outset and it’s turned out to be better quality than many in the region predicted, if generally not quite at the level of 2002.  

Overall rating: 8/10

When to drink: 2014-2020

Two to try: Veuve Clicquot 2004, Laurent-Perrier 2004  

2005

Style in brief: Developed, open, even luscious

More evidence of warmer summers came this year with above-average sunshine. July was hot and humid, followed by cooler weather in August but a very sunny, dry September led to favourable ripening conditions.  Quality is more variable across the region than in some years, but some excellent vintage wines were made.

Overall rating: 6/10

When to drink: 2014-2016

Two to try: Jacquart Cuvée Alpha 2005,

Drappier Grande Sendrée 2005

2006

Style in brief: Developed, balanced wines with some structure to age well 

After a very hot and dry July, it was wet and cool in August and a return to warm, dry weather at the start of September enabled final ripening. Generally the quality of Chardonnay is highest, though some may be overripe. Pinot Noir did better than Pinot Meunier. A season of extremes has produced some high-quality vintage wines.

Overall rating: 7/10

When to drink: 2014-2020

Two to try: Perrier-Jouët Belle Époque 2006,

Louis Roederer 2006

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