Mark Sargeant (currently of The Strand Dining Rooms and previously of Claridge’s) is officially launching his new Soho brasserie on Monday, but we snuck inside last night – cameraphone in hand – for an early-doors dinner.
Morden & Lea's location inspired its name, a nod to cartographers Robert Morden and Philip Lea, who were the first to map out Soho in the 17th century. The stretch of Wardour Street south of Shaftesbury Avenue is scattered with chain restaurants and mixed-quality Asian cuisine, so this contemporary newcomer brings fresh interest to the area. Visiting during the restaurant’s soft launch (ending on Sunday), early indicators point to this being – just like The Strand Dining Rooms – a gastronomic asset to an otherwise rather grey pocket of London.
The small, powder-blue façade leads to a surprisingly large space, with the ground floor’s booths and high benches intended for ‘British tapas’ snacking. We ate on the first floor (above), a plusher, brighter dining room and bar with beige leather banquettes and blue and white walls, dotted with random photographs.
Formerly home to Chinese restaurant Chuen Cheng Ku, the fully refurbished space is now a place for pink, tender Goosnargh duck breast perfectly paired with deeply fruity peach or caramelised onion tart (pictured top), which was much like a quiche but moist, dense and served with tangy cheddar shards. The menu makes much of British provenance with trend-driven touches, such as Dingley Dell pork loin with pickled vegetables or roast quail with smoked aubergine, polenta chips and spiced yoghurt. Our standout dish of Romney Marsh lamb (above) stuck to classic British however, combining superbly cooked, aromatic flesh with crispy breast meat cakes, glazed potatoes and juicy mushrooms. Another highlight was the cloying, subtle sweetness of a set dark chocolate pudding with hazelnuts, coffee sherbert and praline mousse on a list which also includes strawberries with Chantilly cream, white chocolate and buttermilk pudding and gypsy tart (made with condensed milk) with clotted cream.
The wine list is currently limited to two French whites from Languedoc, a Bourgogne Pinot Noir and a Catalonian Mas Oliveras Tempranillo, while a playful cocktail list included the fruity Velvet Revolver punch for three, served in a Slash-inspired metal top hat.
Considering its proximity to the value-driven likes of Pizza Express, £35 for three courses of average portion sizes is steep for such a touristy area, but the sheen of quality may tempt the crowds. Eleven months was spent on renovating 17 Wardour Street and it shows: the first floor is a cosy, buzzy place to leave the Leicester Square hordes behind. It all has the distinct whiff of a chain to it and staff we spoke to were excited by the suggestion, but for now, Mark Sargeant should have at least one more winner on his hands.
This article was published 12 June