Royal Ascot starts today, and while we’re fans of all the pomp and parade, what we’re really interested in is the food. Michael Caines (mentored by Raymond Blanc and executive head chef at Gidleigh Park) is heading up the Grandstand’s On 5 restaurant this year. Last year’s Ascot saw gourmet guzzlers consume a staggering 2,400 kilograms of beef, 5,000 kilograms of salmon and 45,000 afternoon teas (all washed down with 51,000 bottles of Champagne, obviously), so Michael certainly has his work cut out…
Can you tell us why you have chosen to become involved with Royal Ascot?
I was attracted to working at Ascot by the excitement and pageantry of the occasion. Royal Ascot is a best of British event and I’m looking forward to cooking using the best of British produce. It’s fun to take traditional British values and use them in cooking: for example, I’ll be using lovely seasonal produce like asparagus. I will also be cooking a great deal with local produce throughout, such as using strawberries and seafood from Cornwall.
What does Royal Ascot mean to you?
It’s a quintessentially British occasion which is the perfect blend of food, pomp and style. I’m looking forward to producing a whole range of dishes from my menu for people to enjoy that will make the most of this splendid occasion.
Are you a horse racing fan? Do you have any betting tips for this year?
I don’t mind horseracing but I’m not a regular goer. I am going to be immersed in it at Royal Ascot, however, which is exciting as I really enjoy it for the spectacle.
Who/what are your biggest cooking influences?
Raymond Blanc (above) is a huge influence for me. I spent three years with him at Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons and he taught me about the palate and French cuisine. I also worked in France with the late Bernard Loiseau, who taught me about regional identity and how to make things full of flavour so people can have a real sense of taste. Joël Robuchon taught me to be very accepting of your work, which is a hard task but a good discipline to have.
What are your most significant food memories?
My most memorable meal was when I went to Quat'Saisons (below) for the first time. I was about 18 and working in London; I wanted to work there so was really keen to see it. It was my first experience of tasting food like that and it was my first Michelin-starred meal.
What really impressed me was the country house – I was so taken by the place, the food and my time there. I had a tasting menu; one of the courses was an amazing aubergine and lamb dish. I also had a beautiful terrine of vegetables with vinaigrette and a delicious hazelnut soufflé. It was a selection of classic Blanc signature dishes, cooked really well and served brilliantly in a beautiful atmosphere. It obviously had the desired effect as I ended up working there!
Which is your all-time favourite restaurant and why?
London’s The Ledbury is one of my favourites. I love the head chef there, Brett Graham, he’s great. I enjoy his style of cooking and he champions everything that I like about food and what I like to eat. He has real integrity for the ingredients and where they come from.
The Square is also amazing. I love Zuma as well, because it’s a Japanese restaurant: I don’t cook Japanese food myself, so I don’t have to judge it and can enjoy it for what it is.
And what about your top bar or boozer?
I don't really do pubs that often but the Dartmoor Inn is a nice pub. The food is great, especially for a Sunday roast.
What would your ultimate meal be?
I really enjoy lobsters and scallops so something simple like a seafood platter with aioli and a glass of Champagne or crisp sauvignon blanc is perfect. If I’m starting with fish then I like meat for a main; roast chicken can never be underestimated. For dessert, I like simple food like panna cotta or a fruit salad with strawberries, raspberries and peaches.
What’s next for you? Anything to tell?
Following Royal Ascot I will be opening a restaurant in Abu Dhabi in September. I will also be opening a country house hotel in Lympstone, East Devon, which I’m really excited about. Once both of these projects are complete, I’m hoping to get into London in the next couple of years. There is a lot going on for me and it’s an exciting time.
To buy tickets for Royal Ascot click here
This article was published 16 June 2015