Bringing a taste of sunny Spain to Borough Market is Lobos Meat & Tapas Bar which throws open its doors today. Meaning ‘wolves’ in Spanish, Lobos is set to be a carnivore’s nirvana, with the focus on meat, meat and more meat.
Head chef Roberto Castro is joined by friends Joel Placeres and Rubén Maza (who have all come from celebrated joint Tapas Brindisa) to set up their own place with “a lot of passion and very little money.” Situated under the rail arches with entrances on both Borough High Street and Dragon Court Alley, the cavernous restaurant has been designed by London Bridge company Design MAD (also responsible for Wright Brothers’ Soho Oyster House) to be evocative of a wolves’ lair, full of dark, reclaimed wood and metallic finishes. It’s small; 50-covers split over two floors, with the ground floor an informal drop-in area and the first floor playing host to an open kitchen and sit-down dining area, but size is by no means reflective of flavour.
With ingredients sourced from local Borough Market traders, the star of the menu is Ibérico pig. Get your meat on with prime cuts including Secreto Ibérico (a ‘hidden’ cut between the shoulder and the loin), Presa Ibérico (the top shoulder) and Solomillo Ibérico (fillet), all cooked simply to allow the quality to shine through.
A short, sharp tapas menu will keep the less meat-inclined happy with dishes such as arroz con costra (rice with a crust), seasonal salads and Martini olives, depending what’s available from the market that day. But if you want to continue on a meaty streak, go for the signature Lobos bun (chorizo patty, candied bacon, fried onion, peppers and a fried egg).
Pick from a punchy cocktail list or a selection of Spanish wines, including sherry and cava, to wash it all down. Ruben told us that the heart of the restaurant lies in its welcoming atmosphere and excellent service from staff who really care; if they manage to pull this off we have no doubt it will become one of Borough Market’s most popular haunts.
This article was published 11 June 2015