It’s the go-to seaside destination for those with London fatigue, and it takes under an hour to get there from Victoria train station. Yet Brighton’s unique personality will have you in the holiday mood as soon as you book your ticket – and its creative and diverse food scene make it a great place to eat, drink and be merry. Vegetarians and vegans are well served here, and residents value institutions that focus on sustainability and local produce. Plus, Brighton’s international scope and proximity to London ensure most cuisines are represented. Here’s Square Meal’s pick of Brighton restaurants.
64 Degrees (pictured right)
It’s hip, edgy, frantic, cramped and “the hottest new nosh to hit Brighton in years” – welcome to 64 Degrees, the latest eatery from veteran local chef Michael Bremner (ex- Food for Friends, Due South etc). It’s a great theatrical concept too, with just two-dozen covers, an open kitchen occupying half the space, chefs wheeling out the dishes as they are ready and half the punters perched on yellow-topped stools by the pass.
Archipelago
This Greek Taverna is well-loved by Hove locals and its proximity to shops and the sea make it a hit with tourists, too. Scoop up mountains of fresh hummus with homemade flatbread while you decide how many dishes to order – it’s best to share everything here, to avoid food envy. The calamari is light and not too chewy, while lamb in red wine sauce is fall-apart tender. The mixed meze is a great way to explore the menu and you can wash it all down with a Greek wine. The white is perfect with the Greek salad.
Bill’s
Though its name and concept has spread beyond Sussex, the Brighton branch is one of the originals and still a local institution. The old bus depot is alive with colourful food, gossiping locals, curious visitors and friendly staff. And if it gets a bit draughty, ask for a hot water bottle – it’ll warm your cockles nearly as well as the food does.
The Chilli Pickle (pictured right)
Ex-Cinnamon Club chef Alun Sperring wows the city’s diners with modern Indian cuisine, including excellent lunchtime thalis and street food options, and mains like tandoori-spiced sea bass. Meanwhile, his wife Dawn heads up a friendly front-of-house team in the large and colourful dining room.
The Gingerman
This congenial, diminutive bistro is the original eatery of Brighton restaurateur Ben McKellar. There's a French slant to the dishes produced by the kitchen, tempered with an instinctive understanding of ingredient combinations. Good service and reasonably priced wines complete a satisfying package.
Moshimo
The first conveyor-belt sushi restaurant to open outside London, Moshimo’s eccentric decor, table seating, Japanese tapas and saké cocktails make it more inviting for a sit-down meal than lots of its fast-food-oriented competitors.
Plateau
The owners of this cool café/restaurant have fused French cuisine with tapas & thrown in a few Asian twists to create a relaxed style of dining they call 'bistronomy'. Run by the team behind delightful Mange Tout on Trafalgar Street, Plateau’s name references its signature sharing platters laden with choice morsels such as braised ox cheek, roast sea trout or chef’s terrine. The wine list champions organic and natural tipples.
The Restaurant at Drakes (pictured right)
This dinky restaurant has built up a formidable local reputation, thanks to the talents of chef Andrew MacKenzie, who cooks up a regularly changing menu of technically astute dishes served in a stylish dining room. There's a decent selection of cocktails – plus sea views – in the bar upstairs.
Riddle & Finns
This bijou fish restaurant tucked away in the city’s South Lanes combines a relaxed vibe with super-fresh seafood dishes from the open kitchen, including classics such as New England clam chowder or fish pie, plus platters of shellfish. Service is speedy and well versed, although prices are more in line with London than Brighton.
Terre à Terre
A coolly contemporary but accessible vegetarian, Terre à Terre’s Asian-influenced food challenges, dazzles and excites. Other plus points include an imaginative organic and biodynamic wine list, as well as personable, informed service.