The next best thing to lounging in Victoria Beckham’s parlour, Murrays sizeable dining room is set within a vast, WAGtastic mock-Georgian mansion that serves as hotel, spa and management training centre. Food-wise, fashionably robust dishes (tender, pink chump of lamb with pearl barley and sweetbreads, say) are bookended by fine-dining fripperies including expertly presented canapés, an amuse-bouche and petits fours. Sauces can sometimes jar (mango coulis with a creamy brown crab and tapioca starter, for instance), but there’s no doubting the quality of ingredients – witness a deeply pleasurable pud of chocolate mousse, banana foam and hazelnut. Service is also top notch. To end, relax with a glass from the long, pricey wine list and contemplate the wisdom of motor-racing commentator Murray Walker, whose famous gaffs are framed on the walls.