With a keener sense of design, hospitality and modern dining than others on the Curry Mile, Mughli would stand out even if the food were average. It’s not, and the menu is also welcomed in Knutsford, where there’s a sister restaurant, and at occasional pop-ups (as in a collaboration with chef David Gale in Alderley Edge). Food is, unsurprisingly, in the royal Mughlai tradition and starts with the instant comfort of street-inspired snacks such as pau bhaji, pani puri and skewers seared over the charcoal pit. Main courses might be a dum biriyani, sealed under a pastry lid, or slow-cooked lamb ‘staff handi’, which has graduated from employee meal to menu status. Methi murgh, Goan fish kari and an overnight dhal makhni are all rich with possibility – and flawless rice, breads and vegetable sides (if okra’s your thing, try the bhindi bhaji) complete Mughli’s challenge to its neighbours.