Not much of the Northern Quarter remains undiscovered, but in one of the narrow thoroughfares off Thomas Street, there’s a bar and restaurant that feels like it might be. In what used to be a knicker factory (this is Manchester’s answer to New York’s garment district, after all), Montpellier’s is a diminutive tribute to French bistro culture with some Manc-friendly details thrown in. Food consists of brunch (including croques, eggs royale, and bloomers stuffed with merguez or Toulouse sausages) every day until 2pm, when the sharing boards and more involved main courses appear. Beef bourguignon, served with dauphinois potatoes and green beans, is the house special, but you could also say ‘allo allo’ to confit de canard or a chèvre salad. The un-Gallic inducements of cocktail masterclasses, Burns Night celebrations and a football-friendly big screen in the basement provide other reasons for seeking out Montpellier’s along the backstreets.