Housed within a clean, boxy Norman Foster design, Manicomio’s City offer is a popular double-decker: the combination of an easy-going café downstairs and more formal restaurant above works “very well”, with “super-friendly” service and a “low-key, buzzing atmosphere” throughout. Bar snacks such as carta di musica with lardo and honey signal the kitchen’s attention to detail, but it pays to explore the full menu. Pasta is a high point (perhaps Cornish red mullet tagliolini with squid ink, tomatoes, anchovy and chilli), bookended by seasonal antipasti and inventive mains such as hen pheasant bombetta with smoked mozzarella, Parma ham and chestnut. Pudding might be a deconstructed rum baba (“lovely”) or tiramisu parfait given a dark twist with liquorice meringue. There are bold flavours to be found and enjoyed – especially alongside the opportunity-rich selection of Italian wines.