Named after the Roman fort that was the birthplace of modern Manchester, Mamucium in Hotel Indigo is an attractive space, with comfortable leather seating, and a striking Silestone and brass bar area. Head chef Andrew Green, formerly of The Lowry’s River Restaurant, has created a northern menu with twists on regional classics.
Starters include smoked Cheshire beef hash, Manchester Smoke House salmon, and Lancashire onion soup, while mains feature local beef, aged for 28 days and served with ox cheek suet pudding. My Lancashire hot pot is a modern deconstruction made using a cannon of Herdwick lamb, cooked perfectly pink and served with a cabbage-wrapped parcel stuffed with rich confit leg meat, potato pearls, and a dark, glossy lamb jus.
Northern comfort puddings include Bakewell steamed sponge and warm mini Eccles cakes, and of course, Manchester tart. It’s an elevated, skilful version, the creamy custard tart filled with sweet homemade raspberry jam and topped with banana crisps, fresh raspberries and coconut.
Cocktails span the classics as well as new Manchester inventions – Pankhurst’s Revolution includes Manchester cordial Vimto and Cherry Bakewell liqueur, while Davies’ Clubhouse, inspired by the first president of Manchester United, is a modern twist on an amaretto sour. The wine list includes plenty by the glass. A confident start to this comfortable all-day dining destination next to Victoria Station.