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SquareMeal Review of L'oscar Restaurant

Bronze Award

Handily located close to Holborn station, is the in-house restaurant of new luxury hotel L’oscar. L'oscar’s shell may be classic, its interiors are anything but, with velvet drapes, soft purple furnishings, crystal butterfly taps in the loos and staff dressed in baroque blazers recalling the OTT glamour of the late 90s and early 00s: Changing Rooms on acid.

The intensity of the interiors is contrasted with a menu of straightforward but well-executed dishes, beginning with an indulgent starting snack of blue cheese wrapped in puff pastry. From the starters, we were impressed by half a dozen briny oysters, while a duck and shitake ravioli arrives as a singular plump dumpling, concealing shreds of rich duck tempered with a helping of creamy cabbage.

We skipped the grill offerings (options include ribeye served with snails and garlic or 8oz bavette with chimichurri) and instead tried flaky Cornish cod served on a peacock-print plate and finished off with a thin crust of dill which added a pleasantly bitter undertone.

For dessert, a delicately assembled mille feuille tastes more indulgent than its dainty size initially suggests, thanks to the inclusion of sweet caramelised apple and thick blobs of vanilla custard.

An extensive wine list means there’s plenty of room for splashing the cash, while those looking to make a night of it can always check in to one of L’Oscar’s equally extravagant bedrooms.

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Good to know

Average Price
££££ - £50 - £79
Cuisine
Brasserie, Modern European
Ambience
Dark and moody, Fine dining, Glamorous, Luxury, Traditional, Unique
Food Occasions
Breakfast, Dinner, Lunch
Special Features
Vegan options, Vegetarian options
Perfect for
Birthdays, Celebrations, Dates, Romantic, Special occasions
Food Hygiene Rating

About

Found on the ground floor of the L’oscar hotel, L’oscar Restaurant is the bustling and vibrant heart of the building. The aesthetics of this restaurant will be the first thing to command your attention with its illuminated onyx bar and dramatic decor that is inspired by the oldest cafe in Venice. The walls and ceiling are lined with gilded panels, mirrors and striking original artwork.

Once you have absorbed the grandeur of L’oscar’s decor it is time to explore the menu. You could start with a crispy duck salad served with watercress, watermelon and pickled vegetables, or sample the L’oscar steak tartare, finished with a quail egg yolk and accompanied by beef dripping toasted granary. Main dishes allow for some sophisticated comfort with dry aged steaks teamed with roasted bone marrow, Meantime beer battered cod or roast racks of lamb. Those looking for something lighter may prefer the Spring vegetable linguine or the Beyond Meat vegan burger. Sides of sprouting broccoli, minted new potatoes and buttered spring greens are tempting extras. To finish, fine apple tart with Calvados ice cream or the salted caramel tart with gingerbread ice cream could be a satisfying finale to your experience. To describe the wine list as extensive feels an understatement, you will have a varied choice of wines - many available by the glass. Despite being an extensive list, the carefully curated structure of the wine list allows you to discover exactly what you are looking for.

With the charm and sophistication of a Parisian cafe, this food-lovers lair is an impressive destination for a decadent breakfast, a bistro-style lunch or for intimate evening dining, or perhaps you may even want to head insite for a late night dessert and a glass of something special.

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L'oscar Restaurant is featured in

Details

Get directions to L'oscar Restaurant Get directions to L'oscar Restaurant
Location
2-6 Southampton Row, Holborn, London, WC1B 4AA

020 7405 5555 020 7405 5555

Website

Opening Times

Breakfast
Mon 07:00-10:30
Tue 07:00-10:30
Wed 07:00-10:30
Thu 07:00-10:30
Fri 07:00-10:30
Sat 07:00-10:30
Sun 07:00-10:30
Lunch
Mon 12:00-15:00
Tue 12:00-15:00
Wed 12:00-15:00
Thu 12:00-15:00
Fri 12:00-15:00
Sat 12:00-15:00
Sun 12:00-15:00
Dinner
Mon 17:30-21:30
Tue 17:30-21:30
Wed 17:30-21:30
Thu 17:30-21:30
Fri 17:30-21:30
Sat 17:30-21:30
Sun 17:30-21:30

Reviews

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1 Review 

Eric D

26 July 2019  
A brilliant menu by my favourite chef with a wine list that is varied in cost and style. It is difficult to choose from the menu as there are always several things I would like to try.
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