Taking its theme from Federico Fellini’s cult film 8½, smart Locanda Ottoemezzo manages to capture some of the style & glamour of the movie & the era it evokes. The sultry neon signs & black frontage might suggest a bordello, while racy photos of 50s’ icons add to the adult feel, & the basement rooms have a decadent, sultry quality. Prices are steep & the menu is broadly modern Italian, although the kitchen occasionally ventures east – adding soy & honey to grilled tuna steak, for example. Beef carpaccio with parmesan & truffle shavings suits the mood, likewise a grown-up dish of squid-ink pasta with calamari & chilli, while pannacotta with a glass of Vin Santo makes a lush finale. There’s a daytime café next door, although the adjoining chocolate shop is no more.