Almost picture-perfect, Le Talbooth is set in a beamed Tudor building by the pretty river Stour, complete with visiting swans and a bridge. The dining room looks good following its revamp, while the adjoining terrace and gardens are still unbeatable for summer alfresco (and riverside BBQs). Open fires add comfort in wintertime, although the whole place feels warm and welcoming whatever the time of year. The kitchen takes an eclectic view of things, mixing classics such as Dedham Vale beef Rossini or paupiette of lemon sole with more contemporary ideas ranging from hand-dived Orkney scallops with caramelised onion, razor clams, lardo and curry flavours to Dingley Dell pork with wild garlic, salt-baked Jersey royals and port glaze. To finish, try the ‘lemon meringue pie’ soufflé tweaked with caipirinha, yuzu and lemon verbena. Excellent-value set menus guarantee a steady lunchtime trade (regulars get additional discounts), service is “outstanding” and the whole package is “not overpriced”. Le Talbooth is also “great for a special occasion”.