Evening dining is the latest venture pursued by this chain of Belgium-based, baguette, croissant and coffee bars. The new Fulham Road restaurant is Le Pain Quotidien’s 25th site. Its large interior follows a light wooden theme: including trademark communal table. The space might lack much after-dark atmosphere, but the concise menu holds interest: from classic French dishes plus small plates, sharing boards and charcuterie, to cocktails and draught beers not seen at any other site. The bubbly, efficient waitress recommended Moroccan spiced meatballs to start and these were an instant hit: light and flavoursome, in a fragrant sauce with little hits of tomato and chilli. A main-course coq au vin, coated in a rich, smoky sauce, also passed the test – though needed more accompanying greenery. The concise wine list yielded a decent Rioja, while chocolate fondant made for an indulgent ending. In all, a promising night-time start.
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