La Tasca’s apparently independent little brother – there are five restaurants in the mini-chain – has its Deansgate base in an appealing galleried space full of dark wood and greenery. The menu is classier than at the mothership, with hand-carved 36-month jamón ibérico, aged Manchego with honey, and Marcona almonds all available as openers before tapas proper. Try slow-cooked pork cheeks in Pedro Ximénez sherry with sautéed potatoes, or hake with broad beans and jamón. There are signs that this is not a homely sherry bar in the old country – unless they’ve started selling superfood salads and salted caramel slices with chocolate-coated popping candy in the old country – but traditional Spanish bodegas don’t do loyalty cards either. If you want to make a night of it, choose the tasting menu with matched Spanish wines (bottles otherwise cost from £17.45 on the list). Daytime options include a weekday tapas lunch for under £10.