Tucked off Deansgate, this Spanish restaurant is a solo venture for former Neighbourhood manager Yashin Dadashnejad, originally from the Canary Islands. On a site with plenty of hospitality history – not all squeaky clean – it’s bold and bright, with yellow banquette seating and red light-shades against bare brick. The food is more delicate and pretty than at many nearby rivals. Smoke guns and edible flowers feature in both bar and kitchen service, and the menu changes daily. Starters and tapas are interchangeable and might be slow-cooked pig cheeks; squid sliders in black buns with tomatoes, onions and alioli; or ‘wrinkled’ baby potatoes with garlickly Canarian mojo. Bigger plates include a handful of rice dishes, Ibérico pork ‘sirloin’ and grilled sea bass pil pil. There’s a daily lunch special (noon-4pm) of three selected tapas for £12.95. Cocktails are ambitious, but the neat Spanish wine list feels a more natural fit.