This third Kricket (after Soho and Brixton) is part of the gleaming reboot of the former BBC Television Centre in White City. It makes the most of the re-developed surroundings with space for 100 diners, a separate bar, an outdoor terrace and counter dining for those who want to get up close and personal with the chefs in the open kitchen. Such a large space hasn’t translated into loss of atmosphere, though, with details such as cushion-laden banquettes keeping things cosy.
The menu is also bigger than at the other Krickets, featuring all the signatures (Keralan-fried chicken, crunchy bhel puris) alongside newer additions, such as the beautifully soft tandoori-roasted monkfish tail, which arrives massaged by a velvety coconut sauce. Elsewhere, sweet grilled pumpkin is matched to a thick makhani sauce and melted-down paneer (we’d recommend ordering some roti to mop your plate clean). Our top dessert pick is the gulab juman: miniature doughnut-style spheres which crumble in the mouth and are made sweet and fragrant by a carom seed crumble.
A strong selection of vegetarian options and an Indian-style Sunday roast are further reasons to visit, while prices remain relatively pocket-friendly. Cool, fun and served by friendly and knowledgeable staff, this latest Kricket hasn’t lost any of its rough-and-ready charm.
Food imagery: Hugh Johnson
Interior imagery: Run For The Hills