A fashionable home-from-home for Belfast’s smart set since 2003, James Street South occupies the shell of a one-time linen mill, complete with high arched windows, polished wood floors and contemporary artwork on the whitewashed walls. Chef/proprietor Niall McKenna’s food is pitched at sophisticated, grown-up palates – good sourcing, serious flavours and sharp technique are the hallmarks, with enough foams and gels to keep the foodie geeks happy. Kilmeel mackerel is served with marinated cucumber, Comber potato and saffron rouille, Antrim beef is partnered by ox tongue, girolles and cauliflower, and Lissara duck is given the Italian treatment with cavolo nero, mustard fruits and kohlrabi. Desserts are European staples such as tarte Tatin or rhubarb mille-feuille, and the wine list is peppered with decent stuff from the Old and New Worlds. The premises are also home to a more casual Bar & Grill.